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SEA

75 Second Ave. between 4th & 5th Streets [map]

Sure, it looks and feels a bit clubby, and they have a tendency to blare the latest tinny Gatecrasher mix or two year old Brit-Brit, but all transgressions are easily forgiven when your enormous plate of pad-whatever arrives. The food is good, the prices low, and the service competent enough to make SEA a safe bet whenever you're craving a bit of tasty Thai.

Appetizers typically don't stray above the five dollar mark, and are sized so a table of four can share a few different plates without the usual negotiations over who eats the last piece or sulking about getting nothing but garnish. Spring rolls are light and crispy, greaseless morsels filled with bok choy, pork, and shrimp with a citrus dipping sauce; Tip Tum fritters are little deep fried goodie balls full of shrimp and chicken rolled in a dense coating; and Thai Crepe Dumplings, nifty little purses of chicken and ground peanuts bound in a won ton-like wrapper, steal the show with a beguiling mix of sweet and salty followed up with a dash of crunch.

Entrees include all of the classic standbys, from Pad Thai to Lard Nar, a stew-like concoction of bok choy, broccoli, wide rice noodles, and chicken or beef swimming in a thick, slightly salty gravy, which rivals that of San Francisco cheap Thai palace Osha Thai Noodle Cafe, a sentimental favorite of this reviewer. Or pick any color of the curry rainbow; all are well executed and stick closely to tradition, the Massaman with pineapple and potatos and the green Panang rising above the others. Daring to break with the noodle-dish / curry clique? Try one of the reasonably priced special entrees or house specialiaties, such as Queen of Siam Basil, a firey melange of (choose your meat), basil, peppers and onions, or be adventurous and get the Chu Che Crispy Fish or Volcanic Chicken. I've only ever seen these two from afar, so be forewarned, the fish is the whole fish and I'm pretty sure the chicken erupts like a junior high science project. So if you're the least bit squeamish about being served the whole animal, or are wearing your favorite shirt and don't want liquid hot chicken-magma getting on you, get something a bit more tame. On second thought, the chicken could just be spicy, but it would be a lot more fun if it spouted like Etna.

And finally, all that can be said about dessert is "tempura cheesecake." Sure, the looney Brits across the street at A Salt and Battery would deep fry a pigeon wrapped in bacon and belgian chocolate and give it a cute name like Matey Steve, but it would be a feeble competitor for a slice of New York cheesecake battered, bathed in hot oil, and drizzled with a bit of rasberry coulis. It's a gooey mess, and a bit silly, but when available a worthwhile coda and a fitting spat of gluttony with which to end a fine value of a meal.