Blue Smoke

116 E 27th Street bet. Park & Lex [website map]

For all the hype surrounding the rebirth of Barbecue in New York City, there are a dearth of barbecue restaurants of note. There are, of course, excellent mom-and-pop barbecue and the ubiquitous Dallas BBQ with six (yes six!) locations in New York City. But no barbecue location has gained cachet as the media-darling Blue Smoke.

Blue Smoke is located in fashionable, if empty at night, Kips Bay (or Upper Gramercy as some put it) one block over from 3rd Avenue's Curry Lane. Blue Smoke's location is convenient enough for causal passersby and close enough to the more inexpensive Curry Lane assemblage of restaurants to afford the connoisseur ample choice. Which is fortunate, because on a Friday night the wait is 1-2 hours and on Saturday night the wait is 2+ hours - longer if there is a show at the downstairs Jazz Standard. Call ahead or use Open Table for reservations to miss the rush, or if you wish to brave the crowds, there is ample bar space and the bartenders are quite helpful to those wishing to buy marked up beer and spirits. It is "Upper Gramercy" anyway and you will be paying those prices at the bar. An aside: the whole upper/lowe, is this Gramercy Park is annoying as the Realtors who push these silly names onto the public.

Once seated in the quite large dining area (there is an upper and lower space) the wait staff are quite courteous and operate on the "team" method. Who knew something invented by fancy French restaurants would make it into a barbecue joint? The menu is awash in animal products and good hearty vegetables. Your vegetarian friends might be able to find sustenance here, but count your vegan friends right out. This is a barbecue joint for God's sake.

I would recommend starting with warm Barbecued Potato Chips and blue cheese dressing as an appetiser. They are served in a galvanized bucket which rounds out the industrial chic dining room. But what you really came here for were Ribs, right? Fortunately for you, the carnivore of the family, Blue Smoke serves four types of ribs:

  • Memphis Baby Back Ribs (Lean)
  • St. Louis Spareribs (Marbled)
  • Texas Salt & Pepper Beef Ribs
  • Kansas City Ribs - tomato-based with molasses

Each of the four rib types have their own cut and sauce. An explanation of the different cuts and types are necessary to rib enjoyment. Memphis Baby Back Ribs are what you expect to get when you think "Ribs." They are slow cooked and served without sauce. If you want your "Baby Back Ribs" get these. If you are looking for something leaner, you can choose the St. Louis Spareribs. These feature pork ribs which are leaner and less fatty than the other three rib selections but have the blade bone intact. A similar choice would be the Texas Salt & Pepper Beef Ribs which are full beef ribs prepared with a salt-pepper wrap. Finally, if you want to step away from the Chili's/Damon's rib type go with the Kansas City Ribs. These ribs you would have to cross the Mason-Dixon Line but now are accessable to us Yankee's. These feature the whole rib cut from the belly. You can choose from the long or the short section of ribs - both feature meaty ribs full of flavour. The differences between the two cuts depend on if you like the brisket; the short section has the brisket (the tough, chest portion of the beef) removed while the long section has the brisket. Take the brisket - it is very good and worth the trouble.

For those connoisseurs who count Damon's as high dining experience when it comes to ribs or who don't know which of the four styles to choose from, I would suggest the Rib Sampler where you can try out Kansas City Spareribs, St. Louis Spareribs, and Texas Style Beef Ribs. Try the ribs without extra sauce, and with the two provided sauces: barbecue and teriyaki. Both bring out the flavors of the ribs and show the care that has been taken to match sauce falvor with rib type. No A-1 Steaksauce experience here.

Along with the ribs comes the excellent pulled pork sandwich which is served on a brioche bun with sides of pickles & coleslaw. The coleslaw is not mayonnaise-based but rather uses a lighter creme base. Coleslaw enthusiasts might balk at the "dry" coleslaw, but to us Yankee's who think that coleslaw is a mess with too much mayo and not enough slaw will be satiated. Speaking of sides, the cornbread is served hot and is everything you would expect cornbread to be. Nothin' wrong with that.

When you are finished with your meal, go ahead and get a cup of coffee. I did not inquire where they procured their beans or of the roasting method, but rather savoured the blend in total ignorance. The coffee blend is matched very well to the meat-heavy menu at Blue Smoke and isn't too heavy. All said and done a 2-3 hour meal, with excellent service (only had to ask for water) will set connoisseurs back $30 a head including adult beverages and tips. Blue Smoke delivers on the hype, and I would not hesitate on recommending this barbecue joint to our Yankee and Southern connoisseurs.